Finding a motorcycle to rent (hire) in Ireland is no easy task – insurance over there is horribly expensive. Therefore – the three places in the whole country that rent bikes are all booked up. I got very lucky (Luck of the Irish) and was able to reserve a BMW 1200GS for one day. It was raining when we got there and rain was forecast for most of the day. We were told that we were under no obligation to go but I knew that it was now or never. Really, there was no decision to make – we were going regardless.
Let the adventure begin!!
Our day would be spent riding around The Ring of Kerry. It is a scenic ride around the Iveragh Peninsula in southwest Ireland’s County Kerry. The route takes you though rugged coastal landscapes and rural seaside villages. There are plenty of places to stop and historical sights to see along the way but we didn’t do too much of that since it was cold (high temp that day was 63°) and raining most of the time. By the time we got done with lunch/dinner in Kenmare, we barely got the bike back in time. (For those of you that follow Robin on Facebook, Rossbeigh is where she went on her horseback ride.)
Despite the weather, the Ireland countryside was spectacular and when it was safe to do so, we stopped to take a couple pictures. By the time we got to Cahersiveen (45 min), it was time to get out of our wet jackets, have a beverage and try to dry out and warm up. Baileys and the hottest coffee available for my co-pilot, and a good old Coke for me. The bike is patiently waiting out in the rain for us to get back on.
I wanted to take the ferry across this little bay but I left all the money at home (too excited I guess). We found out that it was only €3.00 for both of us and the bike, I actually had that in pocket change so we hopped on the ferry for the 5 minute ride across to Valentia Island. Valentia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially viable transatlantic telegraph cable. Transatlantic telegraph cables operated from Valentia Island for one hundred years, ending with Western Union International terminating operations in 1966.
The weather broke just enough (and at the perfect time) for us to get a view of Skellig Michael, a rocky island seven miles offshore. Skellig Michael is famous for an abandoned 7th-century Christian monastery; can you imagine, back in the 800’s living on a rock seven miles offshore? Today, it is a tourist attraction. Several of the Star Wars movies have scenes that were filmed on the island. Weather permitting; over 100 people take the 45 minute boat ride out to see it. Robin thought it would be a fun day trip until she found out that the only way to get to the monastery was up these 600 steps (with no handrail) – then you have to walk back down. At that point, wild horses could not have dragged her…
Peat is still burned in Ireland and the smoke from a “turf fire” is distinctly different from that of a wood fire. I’m told that if you go to Ireland in the cooler months, many of the pubs burn turf fires in their fireplaces and that seats near the hearth are the most popular. This cottage was burning peat – that smell (love it or hate it) is 100% Ireland, it must have mystical elements or something. On a motorcycle, you are actually “there” wherever “there” might be, as opposed to being inside a vehicle, where your sensory experience is mostly limited to sight. It is SO much better on a bike, even when the elements make it a challenge – Just one of the reasons I love to ride…
After a brief stop in Kenmare, it was time to leave the coast. We headed up into the Killarney National Forest. The roads were narrow and twisty but in my book, that’s cause for celebration. The blue sky was a welcome sight and we weren’t getting wet anymore.
One of the attractions in the Killarney National Forest is the Muckross Abbey. It was established in 1448 as a as a Franciscan friary and has a violent and interesting history. Alas, we were out of time so we’ll add that to the list for our next visit to the Emerald Isle.
Muckross Lake, Killarney National Forest, County Kerry, Ireland.
I was excited to have a chance to ride a motorcycle in Ireland and it was everything I thought it would be. I didn’t think it would take all day to ride 140 miles but I would jump at the chance to do it again. The BMW 1200 GS Adventure was more like riding a dirt bike than a low riding Harley Davidson The roads in Ireland can be very bumpy though, and with over 8 inches of suspension travel – the 1200 GS Adventure is perfect for the conditions. It would be a blast to come over for three or four weeks and tour the island on a bike. Maybe someday….. See the rest of the Ireland adventure here